Steve Calder’s Menswear 10 Commandments

A rising star on Australia’s menswear scene, Steve Calder began building a name in the game around five years ago, with the launch of his made-to-measure Neapolitan tailoring line, Calder Sartoria. This Melbourne-based boutique operation trafficks in su misura sartorial wares that Calder describes as “soft, relaxed, masculine and wearable in almost every environment”.

But it’s the other arm of Calder’s business, ready-to-wear label Informale, that has been garnering most interest from the international men’s style cognoscenti of late. The brand, which was established in 2018, specialises in small-batch apparel blending the craftsmanship and flattering fit of a tailored garment with the utilitarian elegance of workwear and military garb. (Think: pleated drawstring linen trousers, Ghurka shorts, safari jackets, trim-fit tees and cargos.)

Almost exclusively made in Melbourne, with a colour-scheme based around the easy mix’n’match palette of blue, olive, tobacco, cream, white and grey, Informale’s garments are ideal for the guy unwilling to forgo craftsmanship and fine materials in his casual attire. The bloke who wants to look stylish but not stuffy. Here are Calder’s tips for achieving exactly that goal.

10. “Style is a journey, the culmination of all life’s experiences. There is no end point — it evolves as you do. And your style should be your own, too, just as your life is your own.”

9. “Loafers sans socks in summer. Try it!”

8. “I apply this test whenever it’s time to spend my hard-earned money buying anything from laptops to clothes: Where and how is it made? Is it the very best quality I can afford? Does the company align with my values? And will I truly enjoy using it for years to come?”

7. “Buying something of great value and quality will always cost more. And on that note, if the price seems too good to be true, it usually is.”

6. “Understand the cut of your clothes. If you take the time to train yourself to know when a garment is cut well, your wardrobe will be immediately better off.”

5. “I believe confidence comes from knowing you’re different, and being proud of it.”

4. “If there’s two things in your wardrobe you should really invest in, it’s jackets and shoes.”

3. “Yeah, linen wrinkles and crushes like hell. But that’s the beauty of it. There’s something about the fabric which is entirely satisfying. The futility of perfection perhaps. You’re forced to care less about how your linen trousers are sitting, and more about the company around you.”

2. “Hard work pays off. Always. Want that pair of Aldens? Put in the work, save the money, make it happen. Wish you had Jason Statham’s body? Train hard. Diet hard. Hard work pays off.”

1. “I try not to concern myself with the latest trend or fashion that influencers and brands are pushing. If that new cut or style lasts more than a few seasons, then perhaps I’ll consider it.”

Learn about Calder Sartoria at stevecalder.com.au, or discover Steve’s more laid-back label at informale.com.au. For more in-depth insights, view our recent interview with Steve Calder on our ‘Banter with Barker’ YouTube channel.

All images by Jacob Medina, courtesy of Steve Calder / Informale